I saw a post on a local FB group page that someone was looking for a person to make this afghan for them and wanted to know how much it might be.

So I decided to figure it out

For someone to receive what they deserve for making an afghan like this, the cost would probably be prohibitive for most people.  Materials would probably be at least $50, depending on the yarn...not too bad for an afghan.  One this size would take a lot of yarn.

The stars would take about 15 min. each.  50 stars x 15 min  = 12.5 hours
6 rows per stripe x 13 = 78 rows.  Each row could easily take 20 minutes--78 x 20
= 26 hours.
By the time you add on time for assembling and weaving in ends, it would be close to 40 hours.
$15/hr is on the low side for skilled labor. So, 40 x $15 = $600 + the cost of materials.

I would consider making one for that amount.

People who don't crochet or knit or make quilts,  etc., have no idea the "true" worth of hand-crafted items.

So, unless you have tons of money or are willing to only pay someone sweatshop wages, it would be much better to take a class or ask someone you know to teach you how to do the craft yourself. 

Just sayin'

Oh My, How Things Have Changed!

My son Jay and I spent Friday, 07/10, at my alma mater University of Missouri-Columbia, aka Mizzou, attending Summer Orientation.  In less than a month, he will be off out into the world again to continue his archaeology studies there.

In addition to doing all the stuff he needed and wanted to do, I dragged him to a few places on campus where he graciously allowed me to reminisce about my time there--quite a few years back.

One place in particular I wanted to see was the sewing lab in Gwynn Hall where I spent a lot of time.  It's still there, but the old tables and chairs have been replaced with large waist-high cutting tables with lockers below and tall stools.

The Singer home sewing machines were all gone.  Instead, there was a long u-shaped double row of industrial grade mid-arm sewing machines.  Boy, would I like to take one of those babies for a spin!

Plus, suspended from the ceiling was a white backdrop I am assuming was for photo shoots of finished garments.  (Sorry for the glare--I was shooting through the window of a locked door.)

The other sewing workroom, which was next door, is now filled with rows of computers.  One can only wonder what amazing ideas about textiles are being explored there.

I am on my feet all day long when I am teaching--rarely sitting except at lunch time.  I even sew standing up at a tall desk. By the end of the day I was exhausted. I had forgotten how big the Mizzou campus is--it's even bigger now than when I went there. I can't wait to go back again to visit.

Lining a Crochet Bag: Step-by-step

Last summer I crocheted a bag from macrame twine as part of the rehab for my broken wrist. It has been waiting for a lining. Summer School is done and it is quiet at home so I decided to finally line the bag before it is too late in the year to use it.

1. To draw the pattern, lay the bag on top of paper. (I used inexpensive tissue paper from the Dollar Store.)
   
2. Draw around the edge of the bag with a pencil. (I don't like to use Sharpie for this because it bleeds through onto my cutting board.)
   
3. Use a straight edge and a curved edge to smooth out the line on one half of the pattern.  Mark a grainline for pinning the lining.
   
4. Fold and pin the paper in half and cut around the smoothed lines.
5. Lay it on top of your bag and check the size. There are no seam allowances included at this point.
6. Pin and cut out heavy-duty fusible interfacing. (I used Pellon 809 Decor Bond.)
   
7. Lay pattern and interfacing onto a double layer of lining fabric, making sure the grainline is parallel to the selvage. (I used a batik from Fabric Traditions.)
   
8. I originally drew a 5/8" seam allowance around the entire pattern.  However, when I sewed it at those lines, the lining was too big on the sides and bottom. I kept the extra 5/8" at the top.
9. Cut out the lining and fuse to the wrong side of the lining fabric according to manufacturer's directions.
   
10. To make the pocket on the lining, cut a 6 1/2" x 5" rectangle of two layers of lining fabric.  Cut out a piece of the interfacing and fuse to one of the pocket pieces.
    
11. Pin the pocket pieces right side together and stitch with a 1/4" seam allowance, leaving a 3" opening on one side.
    
12. Trim the corners and turn the pocket right side out. Fold and pin the edges of the opening to the inside. Press.
13. Topstitch the upper edge of the pocket at 1/2" and 1/8".
    
14. Center the pocket on one  of the lining pieces and pin 2" from the upper edge. Topstitch the pocket 1/8" from the edge along the sides and bottom.
    
15. Pin the two lining pieces right sides together and stitch 5/8" from the edge.  Slide lining inside the bag to check the fit.
    
16. To reinforce the seam of the lining, zigzag 3/8" from the edge. Trim close to the zigzag. Press seam allowance to one side.
17.  Fold and pin the upper edge 1" toward the wrong side. Topstitch 1/2" around the top edge.
18. Slide lining inside bag with wrong sides together, matching the side seams with the side edges of the bag. (I placed the upper edge of the lining at the bottom of the last row of single crochet.}
19. Pinning was not easy because of the thickness of the bag, so I used spring-type clothespins to hold the lining in place.
    
20. Slip-stitch the lining to the bag.